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Fast times call for Slow Food
February 27, 03
Suzanne Havala Hobbs

Modern life is fast.

We seldom seem to have enough time for work, ourselves or our families.

But a movement that began in Europe asks people to reflect -- and slow down -- around one central aspect of all of our lives: food.

The idea behind the Slow Food movement is that most of us today don't pay enough attention to the food we eat. We don't enjoy preparing it and eating it as much as we should. We don't think enough about where our food comes from and what's in it.

Slow Food is also about preserving culinary traditions and protecting small farms.

It may come as no surprise that the Slow Food movement got its start in Italy in 1986, in part in reaction to McDonalds opening in Rome. More broadly, though, it was a protest of the industrialization and standardization of the food supply and the loss of regional products with their unique recipes and flavors.

In Italy, the movement has 35,000 members in 340 chapters advocating for policies that protect cultural foods and the environment. Educating the public about these core values is an essential goal. One major success: the government has incorporated food studies based on these principles into the school curriculum for kids.

The movement is spreading. It now has more than 65,000 members and supporters in more than 45 countries, including the U.S., where the focus is North American food traditions.

Slow Food U.S.A. advocates "living the slow life" by recognizing that food can be a daily pleasure if we make the time for it. It can be especially rewarding if we share meals and meal preparation time with family and friends.

"Slow Food U.S.A. is an eco-gastronomic association," says David Auerbach, PhD, co-chair of the Slow Food Research Triangle chapter and a faculty member in the philosophy department at North Carolina State University.

"In the U.S., it's associated with school gardens. The philosophy is to eat food grown locally and in season, and to promote small producers."

The guiding principles of Slow Food U.S.A., which is a nonprofit educational organization, include:

• Sustainability. Stewardship of the land, ecologically sound methods of farming, and promoting food that is local, seasonal, and organically grown.
• Cultural diversity. Preserving cultural cuisine and using culinary traditions to promote a sense of community.
Pleasure and quality in everyday life. Recognizing the contributions of those who produce and prepare wholesome food and showing appreciation for creativity.
• Inclusiveness. Educating people about the mission of Slow Food and working to engage them locally and globally.
• Authenticity and Integrity. Ensuring that staff and leaders of Slow Food model movement ideals in their lives and that they are reflected in events and projects.

Auerbach says the membership base in Slow Food USA is broad. Examples of

activities sponsored by the Research Triangle chapter include an olive oil tasting, cooking demos by local chefs, a coffee tasting, and membership potlucks. The group has plans to develop an innercity garden project, work with children in elementary schools, and sell produce at the farmer's market.

For more information on the Slow Food movement, a calendar of events, or to join Slow Food Research Triangle, go online to the Slow Food USA web site at
www.slowfoodusa.org. Membership in the local chapter costs $60-$75 and includes a subscription to Slow, the movement magazine published in Italy in five languages as well as a subscription to The Snail, the newsletter published for American members. You can also call the national office of Slow Food USA at (212)-965-5640.

In the meantime, the next time you feel "enslaved by speed" and that you have "succumbed to the Fast Life," consider the advice of Slow Food. Begin your defense of the good life in the kitchen.

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